Optimization of cosmetic formulations development using Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology: physical, sensory and moisturizing properties

Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.

Comportamento de homens e mulheres quanto ao consumo de cosméticos e a importância na indicação de produtos e adesão ao tratamento / Cosmetics consumption behaviour among men and women and the importance in products indication and treatment adherence

Introdução: Os cosméticos apresentam-se em destaque no comércio não só no Brasil, mas mundialmente. Há grande necessidade do conhecimento das motivações de compra dos consumidores para o desenvolvimento de produtos mais bem direcionados e melhora na adesão de tratamentos dermatológicos. Objetivo: Conhecer os hábitos de consumo cosmético e fornecer um link da área farmacêutica com a área médica. Métodos: Estudo observacional analítico do tipo transversal, realizado por meio de questionário. Resultados: A principal alteração na pele masculina é a oleosidade, nas mulheres além dessa há a preocupação com manchas. O consumo de produtos de higiene é unânime em ambos os sexos. As mulheres se mostram mais preocupadas com o tratamento e prevenção de danos solares. A maioria das mulheres utiliza produtos antiacne e maquiagens. Produtos para cabelo apresentam a mesma tendência de vendas tanto para homens quanto para mulheres, não sendo o mesmo observado entre os produtos para pele. Conclusões: Homens e mulheres apresentam diferentes motivações no momento de adquirir produtos cosméticos. A forma de relacionamento do consumidor com os produtos tem mudado expressivamente, e ele vem buscando expressar sua individualidade perante a sociedade. Isso reflete a necessidade do conhecimento médico de tais motivações a fim de melhorar a adesão dos pacientes ao tratamento.

Introduction: Cosmetics stands outs in commerce, not only in Brazil but also worldwide. There is great need for knowledge on buying motivations of consumers for the development of better-targeted products and improved adhesion to dermatological treatments. Objective: To know the cosmetic consumption habits and provide a link from the pharmaceutical with the medical area. Methods: An analytical observational study, cross-sectional, was conducted by questionnaire. Results: Main change in male skin is oiliness; in women, besides oiliness, there is concern with blemishes. The consumption of hygiene products is unanimous in both sexes. Women are more concerned with the treatment and prevention of sun damage. The vast majority of women use anti-acne products and makeup. Hair products have the same sales trend for both men and women, but this is not observed among products for skin. Conclusions: Men and women have different motivations when buying cosmetics. The way consumers relate with products has changed dramatically and they are seeking to express their individuality in society. This reflects a need for medical knowledge of such motivations in order to improve patients' adherence to treatment.